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Motorcycling in Japan II

Where to Ride in Hokkaido - Where to Stay- Buying a Bike in Japan
Getting a License in Japan- Things You Should Know- Guidebook
Thinking of Touring Canada?- Links!

Notice to Readers!
  I left Japan in 1998, and have only visited for short periods since then.  When possible, I will update this page with information when I become aware of it.   It should be noted, however, that information on this page may be out-of-date or inaccurate.  I am
                            keeping this page up as long as I feel it might be helpful.  Any current information or corrections that readers may be able to provide would be much appreciated.

Updated Nov 2002

Link to List of Asian Motorcycling Pages

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I'm going to assume you are starting your trip from Sapporo, because that is the biggest city in Hokkaido. Entry into Hokkaido would be by plane at Chitose, (30 minutes to Sapporo), ferry at either Otaru or Tomakomanai, (about 1.5 hours from Sapporo), or train directly into downtown Sapporo from the mainland.

Sapporo has a number of bike shops. Stop by a bookstore and look for the Hokkaido only magazine, "Do Bike," (title written in English) which lists lots of shops and has pictures of bikes for sale. Also, pick up a "tsuringu mappu, (touring map)" of Hokkaido that lists recommended motorcycling roads and accomodations, (in Japanese only), and one other larger map with a bigger scale. Having two maps gives you a different perspective -- sometimes roads that are barely marked on one, jump out at you on another and turn out to be ideal.

My well-worn touring map.

Stop at the international travel center in either Sapporo Station, or at the one in the International Plaza across from the clock tower. Both are staffed with English speakers who are very helpful and friendly. BTW, next to the Clock Tower is a decent bike accessory store called, strangely enough, AutoLand. You can buy helmets, gloves, boots, locks, rainsuits and other accessories.

Sapporo can be done in a day, and that may be stretching it. It's a nice place to live, but doesn't offer much for the tourist, unless you come in February for the Snow Festival -- but then the biking is shabby at best. The famous Clock Tower is currently closed for renovation, and will not reopen until the year 3251, when every board will have been coated in epoxy and re-attached with custom-made titanium screws.

Remember, summer is short in Northern Japan, so don't start a trip after August or before the end of May, unless you don't mind some cold and quite likely rain. Snow covers the island from late December to May, longer in the mountains. Bring warm clothes even in the summer.

North West Hokkaido

If you want to go to Asahikawa, which is famous for Ramen and hiking on the nearby mountains, follow the same route out of the city as above. Just go right on 451 instead, and then hook up with the dreaded 12 to Asahikawa.

Beatiful rolling hills in Biei on the way to Asahikawa.

From Asahikawa, Daisetsuzan Park and surrounding areas are very nice, especially in Autumn. Following Route 39 out of Asahikawa will take you towards Kamikawa and Sounkyo, and through some beautiful scenery. Be sure to get off and take a look around, as the road is frequently covered by snow sheds and the scenery hard to see. If you stop at Kobako or Obako, you can rent a bicycle (rip-off city: ¥1000 ) or just take a walk along the trail for a nice break.

If you want to go to Biei and Furano, (recommended) follow the same route as above, but instead of taking 12 up to Asahikawa, go from 451 to 38, which will take you into some very beautiful country. Gorgeous rolling hills and beautiful flowers can be seen in the summer. The shortcut of Route 70 to Biei is recommended for dual-purpose bikes only as it is mostly gravel.

North East Hokkaido

South Hokkaido

If you're going to Niseko and/or Yotei-zan Mountain, take route 230 south, then over to 276, 97 or 66 around the mountain. Yotei-zan is known as Hokkaido's Mount Fuji, and is beautiful in the spring when the snow still caps the summit. This route is also a good way to get out to the coast (and eventually Hakodate), follow 276 or 5 westward, and then take one of the small roads along a river valley out to the sea.

Following Route 229 along the coast southernly, will take you to Hakodate. This is a sometimes beautiful road, and I recommend this longer route if you are going to or coming from Hakodate instead of the shorter route up the right side of the coast, through Muroran. That is, from Hakodate, go west on 228, not east on 278, (which turns into 5, then 37). Route 278 takes you through miles of boring ugly fishing villages, and through the exceedingly ugly industrial town of Muroran, before you finally get some relief at Toya lake (take route 97 north from 37, then you can follow it up to 230 and into Sapporo. Routes 2 / 453 and 230 / 132 are also a nice ride up to Sapporo).

West from Sapporo -- Otaru and Shakotan

From Otaru, the Shakotan penninsula is very nice, do-able in one very long bun-numbing day. After Otaru, the crowds thin out, and if one of the tunnels doesn't crumble on you, (they've been collapsing like cheap tents lately -- okay two have failed), route 5 to 229, around the penninsula, and then back through the mountains will make you very happy, except when you have to battle your way back through the traffic again after Otaru.

Cost for a handbook listing all the YHs in Japan is ¥400 , and can be bought at some YHs or at tourist info centers in major cities. If you can't find a YH or want to stay up late one night, business hotels can be found in most cities, but have zero atmosphere and no meals. Costs are a little more than a YH, about ¥5000, but can go up to ¥10,000. Better than a Business Hotel, and far more interesting, are the Love Hotels. Usually about ¥4000 - ¥6000 a night, (or ¥2000 for a two-hour "rest"), they have a far more interesting decor, and usually a much nicer bath. You don't have to be a male-female couple to enter, but there will only be one bed. You can usually choose the room from a wall of pictures in the lobby. Weird and definitely worth trying at least once.

In Hokkaido, if you're on a tight budget, check out the Rider's Houses. They offer a place to flop you sleeping bag usually for under ¥1000. Look for signs on the side of the road, or ask at a big bike shop for a book listing all the Rider's Houses.

The best way to handle this is to come to Tokyo or Osaka, and just buy a bike, with the understanding that the dealer will buy it back when you leave. All dealers will buy used bikes, but you will lose a lot of value. Expect to get about half of what you paid. Selling bikes privately in Japan is quite rare, but it is possible. It will probably take time though, so it's not practical. If you buy a 250, it will be easier because there is less paperwork with the insurance.

In 1997, I bought a Yamaha Diversion, a used 1994 model with 10,000 kms.  I paid ¥240,000 including two years of insurance, (actual price was ¥180,000). About ¥200,000 and up seems to be the going rate for a decent two or three year old bike with low miles. Ridable bikes can be had for about half that amount, but they won't be very new or pretty. It is not unheard of for people to buy perfectly good bikes for only few hundred dollars, and I have a friend who was given a bike, but you kind of have to be in the right place at the right time.

When I left Japan I could barely give my Diversion away.  It had about 25,000 kms on it, and the best offer I got from a dealer was 25,000 yen.  I ended up selling it to another foreigner for 40,000.  You won't often see bikes on the road that are much older than five years old.

Renting is possible. I rented a bike for four days in 1993. It was brand-new (zero kms!!!) Honda CB400 (incidentally one of the best motorcycles I have ever ridden), and cost ¥10,000 a day. For a short tour this may be the way to go, but you never know what will be available, or how wild they will be about renting to a foreigner. One last resource in the Tokyo area is Transcyclist, run by a man named Volker Lenser, (hope I got your last name right Volker). He arranges tours of Japan and can get rentals lined up. Fax him at 81-33402-5358 or write to him at TransCyclist, CPO Box 2064, Tokyo, 100-91.  I have no idea if this address is still current.

I enrolled in a driving school here in Hamamatsu. It required 1 hour of lecture and testing, and then 17 hours of practice. The riding practice has been going well so I am fairly confident that I will pass the test, which by the way is offered at the school. I didn't want to go to the city testing site, because the testors are often referred to as ISHI-ATAMA, (stubborn, literally "rock-head").

I began the process back in December. These are the steps, with expenses, that I followed:"

• Translate my current US license with JAF - ¥3000

• Go to the local police station to register for a Japanese license - ¥2100

• Take the car written test (in English) - ¥2100

• Take the car driving test - ¥3500 (NOTE: It was suggested to me by my employer that I get the car license first. That way I wouldn't have to take a written test for the motorcycle, which would be in Japanese.)

• Enroll in a driving school (currently) - ¥150,000 (Just to let you know, this is about $1200 U.S. at current rates.)

• Eye exam at license center - ?

• Hopefully done (Editors note: Somehow, I doubt it...)

I enrolled at the Hinomaru Driving School in Meguro-ku Tokyo with the help of my secretary at work. It's a large, posh school but I must have been the first foreigner ever due to the reaction. No English was spoken anywhere but it turned out there was some-one in the back office who knew about 200 words of English to help me along. I had started learning Japanese about 6 months earlier so I could understand many key-words.

The general process which you quote from "Matt" are correct. 17 hours of lessons (theory & practice) are required which enables you to take the final test at the driving school instead of at the municipal testing site. The latter is much cheaper though.  On test day, about a third of the Japanese candidates failed the driving test but the sole gaijin passed...

So obtaining a license is a "mission impossible" sort of project, frustrating at times, a great learning experience and satisfying in the end.

• Gasoline costs about ¥80 a liter (1998).

• UPDATE, May 2001: I've just been informed by a reader that riding two-up on expressways is still illegal: "Unfortunately (the information I reported here on being able to ride two-up on expressways) isn't true yet. I have checked with the local police last month and was informed that it is being studied now and may be changed in the next year or two. However, it is not in effect yet. I checked with a couple of other sources and found the same information. Anyway, I just wanted to let you know so somebody doesn't get up on one of those expressways only to get a ticket with their unhappy Japanese girlfriend..."

• Big Mac, Fries and Coke costs ¥600. Average meal prices: Breakfast, ¥600, (includes toast, egg, ham, coffee). Lunch: ¥800, no beverage. Dinner: from ¥800 to ¥50,000. A good meal with a couple of beers would be about ¥3000.

• This is a stop sign in Japan -- not a yield sign.

• You must stop at all railroad crossings in Japan, gates or no gates.

• And this one means no parking. If you're on a bike though, you can park on the sidewalk or almost anywhere else. Just look to see where other bikes are parked.

• Helmets are required.

• An international licence is almost ticket-proof, but if you do get caught speeding, it's pricey. I paid ¥40,000 (about $300 at that time) and lost my licence for 30 days in 1991 for riding 35kms over, all because I showed my Japanese licence and not my International.

• Japanese ride on the LEFT side of the road, (or is it the right?).

• Splitting lanes is common. Motorcycles can ride up to the front of the queue at stop lights.

• Be careful stopping for amber lights. Most Japanese don't so always check your mirrors.

• Helmets in large sizes are hard to find.  Even if you do find a larger size, the shape might be different from the models sold overseas. A top quality plain Arai or Shoei will cost you about $US250 (at least).

• Things that are cheaper in Japan than Canada: bananas, raw chicken, toilet paper, seaweed, photo reprints, cigarettes ($2 a pack), hard liquor.

• Things that are more expensive: Everything else.

• Some ridiculous prices for everyday things: A ten-kilo bag of rice: $42. One (big) apple: $2. Cup of coffee: $4, no refills. Cantaloupe: $4, (very cheap) to $100.

• Things you can't get here: Good deodorant.

• Recommended Guidebook: Gateway to Japan, Kodansha Press, 1998, June Kinoshita and Nicholas Palevsky. Newly updated and very well-organized and reliable. I almost always agree with their views on Japan and its attractions. It also has an extensive introduction and history section. Too bad they changed the size from easy-to-jam-into-tankbag, to big, bible-sized. Oh well, still a great guide.

• As soon as you get here, pick up a special motorcycle touring map book. They are available at most big book stores, and are small enough to fit in a tank bag. There are about 8 different ones covering different areas of Japan. They map out a recommended course and provide notes on conditions and places of interest. Unfortunately they are available only in Japanese. Ask for a "tsu-rin-gu map-pu," and see the picture above so you know what they look like. They are about ¥1000 each.